Top beauty brands face lawsuits over hair product concerns

For many consumers, the pursuit of beauty has taken a troubling turn, especially for Black women who have long relied on chemical hair relaxers to straighten their hair. With tens of billions of dollars spent annually on hair products, including chemical relaxers, this industry has thrived, boasting over 10.5 million users in the U.S. alone. However, this high-profit market is now facing serious legal challenges as thousands of Black women file lawsuits against the manufacturers of these products in a federal court in Chicago.

The Controversial History of Hair Relaxers

Hair relaxers emerged in the early 1900s as a groundbreaking solution for managing hair texture. Despite their initial allure, the popularity of these products underscores a troubling reality. Many women have felt societal pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards, as highlighted by a plaintiff in an NBC News segment: “I wanted a job … going to an employer with an afro back in those days would not have cut it.”

A 2023 study by Dove and LinkedIn reveals that Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be seen as “unprofessional” compared to white women’s hair. The findings include:

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  • 66% of Black women change their hair for job interviews.
  • 41% change their hair from curly to straight.
  • 54% believe they need to wear straight hair to succeed in interviews.
  • 25% feel they have been denied job interviews due to their hair.

Fidelma Fitzpatrick, a New York attorney co-leading the lawsuit, noted that many women used relaxers due to societal demands or family influence, while others were drawn in by glossy advertisements depicting long, silky hair.

The marketing of hair relaxers often promises “salon-worthy, silky, smooth hair” without adequately disclosing the potential health risks associated with these products.

The Health Risks of Chemical Hair Relaxers

A 2022 study from the National Institutes of Health found that women who regularly used hair relaxers developed uterine cancer at more than double the rate of those who did not. Earlier research has linked relaxer use to increased instances of breast and ovarian cancers, as well as higher rates of fibroids and aggressive tumor growth.

While uterine cancer is relatively rare, the rising incidence rates among Black women are alarming. In an NBC News segment featuring five women plaintiffs from the lawsuits, all raised their hands when asked if they had undergone hysterectomies due to uterine cancer, each having used hair relaxers throughout their lives.

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Marnita Ballard, one plaintiff, shared her emotional journey after being diagnosed with cancer at age 37, ultimately leading to a hysterectomy. “It made me feel like my womanhood was taken away,” she expressed.

L’Oréal’s Involvement

In November 2023, L’Oréal (LRLCY) released a statement asserting that the health and well-being of consumers is their highest priority. However, the Environmental Working Group, a non-profit consumer advocacy organization, rated L’Oréal’s Dark & Lovely Hair Relaxer with a “health hazard score” of 10 out of 10 for its potential dangers.

The lawsuits allege that the cosmetics giant misled consumers by marketing their hair relaxer products as safe, despite knowing or being expected to know about the harmful chemicals contained within. These cases fall under product liability law, holding manufacturers accountable for defective and dangerous products.

As of August 1, over 8,200 active cases have emerged, marking this as one of the fastest-growing mass lawsuits in recent history. The outcomes of these legal battles could have significant implications for both the beauty industry and the health of countless women.

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